GatorBase and GatorGlide combo
Mixing instructions http://youtu.be/kqp2Nb-yAfI
First coat http://youtu.be/-cCDq9WijJs
Second coat http://youtu.be/62vptsnCDtg
After sanding with 100 grit (aluminum) or (fiberglass) and wiping thoroughly with acetone you are ready to apply the GatorBase. New aluminum I recommend degreasing with a degreasing agent.
Before starting GatorBase(GB) or GatorGlide(GG) mix part "A" thoroughly with a high shear mixer or shaking part A vigorously.
GatorBase: Four or Five "thin" coats is ideal, you can mix as much as can use in an hour. When you open the bucket mark the outside at the top level then mark half, quarter and so on and do the same with the catalyst and mix accordingly. (Example: if you are using 1/4 of Part "A" then use 1/4 of Part "B").
Give the GatorBase 72 hrs. to dry before applying the GatorGlide.
Once the GB has cured out, you're ready to start the GG
Give the surface a light scuff with either 220 grit paper or Red course Scotchbrite pad and wipe well with acetone. You are just taking the shine off the GB and letting the acetone in.
Apply both GatorBase and GatorGlide in multiple thin coats using a 6”-inch X 3/8" nap roller. They are the diameter of a hotdog. I also like working out of a 2-gal bucket with a 1 gal paint grid, get all three at Home depot, Lowes etc.
GatorGlide slick bottom: Five "thin" coats are ideal, You can mix as much as can use in an hour and save some for touch ups later. When you open the bucket mark the outside at the top level then mark half, quarter and so on and do the same with the catalyst and mix accordingly.(example: if you are using 1/4 of Part "A" then use 1/4 of Part "B").
GG is going to fisheye like you're painting a waxed hood. That's just how it is, after you roll the second section and before dipping your roller for the third go back and dry-roll the first section. You will see it start to tighten up, you may have to go back again. After the second or third coat it will cover fine if you are applying it thin enough and letting it dry between coats. You have about a 70 min pot life, so mix accordingly.
. Wait for it to dry...DRY(about 20-30 min from when you start your coat) to the touch and start your next coat.
Please never hesitate to call me to discuss the application, mixing tips or if you just want to bounce idea off of me. The longer it sits before you run it the harder it gets.
"THIN TO WIN" I can't stress this enough THIN COATS! You can put the same amount on in 3 coats or 5 coats, go 5 thinner, it will be a better job. All coats of GatorBase and GatorGlide should be done back to back so they integrate. Takes about 2.5 hrs. to complete each Base and topcoat!
Do Not apply at night, in direct sunlight or while raining. You will lose performance!
We ship most of all orders three business day from the date received. Most orders in the lower 48 states are received by our customers in 5 to 7 business days via standard delivery. ALL PROCESSING AND DELIVERY TIMES ARE BASED ON BUSINESS DAYS, THIS EXCLUDES WEEKENDS AND HOLIDAYS. If it gets there early I’m a hero. Our products have a 6 month self-life, agitating once a month is recommended.
Coverages
A gallon covers 195 sq. ft. up to 5 coats.
½ gallon 95 sq. ft. up to 5 coats.
Quart covers 45 sq. ft. up to 5 thin coats.
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Q: What the difference between G2 and G4?
G2 is about 10% slicker and the G4 is about 10% more abrasion resistant! I recommend G2 for most mud and outboard boats, G4 for airboats that run a lot of dry ground. (I run the G2 on my airboat) “FR” or “Fouling Release” is for boats that stay in the fresh water more than out. It is easier to clean than the “Standard”. However if you trailer your boat you will want the Standard . If you want the Fouling release please ask for it under special instruction when checking out of the online store.
I’m not crazy for PT on boat trailers, especially with aluminum boats. Once you get through that factory paint job (and you will) or the bottom may not even be painted. Even if you think it’s painted it is hard to see the bottom where the bunks ride…because it’s covered by the bunks! There are a few things that can be happening to that bare metal/aluminum. 1. Electrolysis (whether it is on-board from your battery charger or exterior force) may be eating where there is no more coating. 2. Corrosion due the pressure treatment in the wood, salt or other. If you don’t have carpet or plastic holding moister on your board! You don’t need/ want PT (in my humble opinion) but you do want GatorGlide!
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It’s important that your bunks come to or past your transom. Otherwise you can hook your hull ( hook is dent at the stern that creates lift therefore driving your bow into the water and killing performance). “Also” if your bunks stick about 5 inches past your stern/transom you can place a 2 x 4 (1.5” x 3.5”) block on top of your bunk using a carriage bolt or other. This will allow you to drive your boat on the trailer until you feel the stern drop over the block, slide back and touch the block, stopping the boat from coming back off the trailer. You can now shut down, hook your bow and pull your boat off the ramp and get the “heck” out of the way. (Don’t be that guy who camps on the ramp!). When launching you simply back in until the boat floats over the block. It’s that easy, safe, smart and very effective when using GatorGlide. The picture shows a removable roller setup on my airboat trailer. I have the same setup for my mudboat. Very nice, very effective, It set ½ a roller height above the bunks.
